The famous Grutas Tolantongo is located in the state of Hidalgo. It has gained fame via social media as something that you must visit when you travel to Mexico.
But is it really worth visiting, or is it just another tourist trap? We’ll reveal the surprising answer in this article with the best and most sustainable ways to visit this natural wonder.
What is Grutas Tolantongo?
It’s a natural water park with thermal springs rich in magnesium and calcium that give the water a baby blue colour.
Grutas Tolantongo translates as 'place of active waters' in the native language, while the word grutas translates to 'grottos' or 'caves' from Spanish. The area contains rivers, waterfalls, pools, caves, and tunnels. In other words, it has it all! If you are a nature lover, this place will blow your mind and was beyond our expectations.
There are actually two water parks to explore with two different entries and entry fees. One is known as Grutas Tolantongo and the other one is La Gloria. Regardless which park you enter first, you can still visit the other one by crossing a bridge. We’ll come back to that later!
When to visit Grutas Tolantongo
The wetter months are from June to October. If you visit during this time, the mountains are nice and green but the water is quite high with a strong current. Swimming in the river could be difficult or even dangerous depending on the day.
The drier months are from November to March. The mountains can get very dry then, so they don’t have the same lush vegetation. It can also become very hot when getting around the parks. You must remember to stay hydrated and wear sun protection.
It’s also worth mentioning that the peak season is around December and January, so the crowds are the worst at this time. I was there at the beginning of May and the crowds weren’t too bad, with most people hanging out at Las Pocitas (the pools).
How to get to Grutas Tolantongo
There are three ways you can visit Grutas Tolantongo. By taking a tour, by renting or taking a ride share car, or by public transport.
While taking a tour can be a good option, especially if you only have one day to visit, we highly recommend to stay overnight to truly explore. Trust us, it has a lot to offer!
Taking a tour
On this day tour, you will beat the crowds by arriving at the hot springs at 8:00 am. You will also visit the caves and the tunnel. The downside of this tour is that you will spend 8 hours in the car and only 3.5 hours at the hot springs.
By car
Visiting Grutas Tolantongo by car can be convenient. The road there is very windy, so you have to be a confident driver. We recommend renting a hybrid car as it’s a more sustainable option compared to a petrol car.
Renting a fully electric car could be tricky as we’re not sure if there are enough charging stations along the way.
Note if you decide to visit La Gloria, you will have to travel via a different road than the one that leads to the main entrance of Grutas Tolatonga.
You can also use BlaBlaCar as a form of convenient and sustainable transportation. It’s a carpooling digital platform you can access on their website or by downloading a mobile app.
In fact, I traveled from San Miguel del Allende in a BlaBlaCar first to … and then to Ixmiquilpan. This route can also be done by bus, but I found that it was cheaper by BlaBlaCar and also the shorter travel time was very convenient.
Make sure you choose a driver with many positive reviews. If you are female, try to find a ride that already has a female passenger. Janna traveled on her own and felt very safe as she had other females joining the ride. Avoid traveling at night time for your own safety.
By public transport
If you are staying in Mexico City, head to La Estacion de Autobuses Norte bus station. There are buses leaving every 15-30 minutes to Ixmiquilpan. The journey takes about three hours and costs between MXN 200-250 depending on the company.
I traveled with Frondera and I paid 200 pesos. You can pre-book your bus tickets there or head directly to the station and buy them at one of the stands. You can pay by either card or cash which is a nice bonus.
Once the bus arrives at Ixmiquilpan, you will have to go to a different bus station. Ask for Bus Station San Antonio, or buses that go to Grutas Tolantongo. The question in Spanish is, “Donde esta la estación de camiones San Antonio para irme a las Grutas Tolantongo?" It takes about 20 minutes to walk from one bus station to another.
You can take a taxi. Confirm the price prior to boarding. In May 2024, the price was 50 pesos but it may rise depending on inflation and fuel prices. You can also take a mini bus known as camioneta or collective that will only cost you 15 pesos.
The San Antonio bus terminal is located near the market, which is a great place to stock up on fruits and have a meal at one of the taco stalls. I recommend trying the quesadillas being sold closest to the station. They have lots of vegan and vegetarian options. We tried zucchini flower and refined beans with homemade salsa. We would recommend buying your food there, especially if you are vegan as the options at Grutas Tolantongo are limited and the prices are quite high.
Once at the station, look for a colourful stand that says Grutas Tolantonga to find the official public bus stop. The bus from San Antonio station to Grutas Tolantonga leaves daily Monday-Sunday at 7:30, 9:30, 11:30, 13:30, 15:30, and 17:30. The return bus from Grutas Tolantongo to Ixmiquilpan leaves at 7:30, 11:30, 13:30, 15:30, and 17:30.
The price for a bus ticket is 70 pesos. The duration of the bus ride is approximately 1.5 hours. The buses don’t have a bathroom inside them. Using the bathroom at the bus station prior to your departure will cost you 5 pesos. To take a bus back to Mexico City, follow the same route in reverse.
Arriving at Grutas Tolantongo
The bus will first take you to Las Pocitas, the famous pools at Grutas Tolantongo. You can choose to get off there or continue to the second entrance where the river and the caves are.
There is a public shuttle bus that runs between the two parts of the water park, which costs 15 pesos per person. There isn’t a set schedule. It leaves when it’s full enough.
There are also smaller shuttles that you can order at reception that costs 100 pesos per ride for between 4-6 people. You can take these down to the river as well.
There are lockers available in two different sizes. The cost depends on which side of the park you are on. On the river side, they are slightly cheaper and cost 100 pesos for a small locker and 130 pesos for a large locker. The large locker at Las Pocitas in comparison costs 200 pesos. Whichever locker you choose, there is an extra deposit of 50 pesos that will be refunded to you when you return the key.
If you don’t have a dry bag with you, we recommend leaving all your valuables and electronics in a locker, your accommodation, or in your car as they may get wet. Especially if you visit Las Pocitas and the caves.
Why you should stay overnight at Grutas Tolantongo
If you love peaceful moments without any crowds, going stargazing, and looking for a perfect photo opportunity, an overnight stay at Grutas Tolantongo is a must. You can choose to stay in one of the cabanas or camp at any of the entrances.
The cabanas starts at 1,000 MXP for a simple room. The price is per room, so if you are travelling single you will still have to pay the same rate.
All the camping equipment is available for rent. A tent costs 250 pesos on the river side (the second entrance of Grutas Tolantongo), although a mattress costs extra. There are a few stations where you can hire a tent.
My experience at Grutas Tolantongo and La Gloria
The original plan was to see sunrise at Las Pocitas ('The Pools'), to take pictures and enjoy the view without any people. But since I had only one night there, I decided to stay on the river side because you can do so much more on that side and even visit the other park La Gloria nearby.
However, if you have two nights there, I highly recommend to stay one night at Las Pocitas to fully enjoy that part of Grutas Tolantongo and then head to the river side or to La Gloria for your second night.
La Gloria is most accessible if you are travelling by car, as the entrance from the river side is a bit of a walk if you bring your own equipment. But if you are travelling light, it shouldn’t be a problem.
I took a bus at 1:30 pm from Ixmiquilpan and arrived at the river side of Grutas Tolantongo at around 3:00 pm.
I was travelling on my own, so I opted for a camping experience. I also really love being close to nature and camping is the best way to connect with it. You can camp really close to the river. There are a few trees around to escape the sun during the day.
I rented a tent a little bit further down the river where it was quiet and there was more shade available. I was lucky to have my tent right in front of the turquoise coloured river. The friendly staff member that rented me the tent also put it up for me, which was very handy.
You can charge your electronics at the tent rental office, but there is no electricity from around 11:00 pm until 7:30 am. Basically nothing and nobody works before 7:30 am, so don’t make my mistake and charge everything during the day.
Once I was settled in, I changed into my bikini and went to explore.
I’d been told that the grutas ('grottos' or 'caves') close at 5:00 pm, so I decided to start there. But as I found out later, the time I was told was incorrect because there were still people there after I left at 6:00 pm.
To get to the caves and the tunnel, you first have to climb quite a few steps. On a hot day, it can be quite challenging so make sure you bring lots of water with you.
We recommend bringing a reusable water bottle as you can refill it at the restaurants, reception and where you rent the tent. With a LifeStraw bottle, you can fill it up straight from the waterfalls as its filtration system means you can drink your water from any source without the worry of getting sick.
Before you go into the tunnel, make sure you leave everything valuable behind and only have your waterproof camera or phone with you as you will get soaking wet.
Walking through the entrance was a bit of a shock because the water running down was really refreshing but once inside you feel nice and warm because of the warm streams running inside.
Bring a flashlight with you if you have one, but I found it quite easy to navigate without one as there was enough light coming in. A yellow rope attached to the wall will help you follow the path and keep you safe.
Almost everyone at the park was wearing reef shoes. If you have sensitive feet, I highly recommend them. They will also help you stay on your feet when it’s slippery. I didn’t have them and I had no issues; I just had to go more slowly and carefully.
The tunnel is 40 meters long. With beautiful stalactite formations and warm water running from the ceilings and the walls, it felt like being in a sauna. A very beautiful and magic sauna!
After exploring the tunnel, I headed down to see the cave system. Just when I thought it couldn’t get any more awesome, it did!
The cave system is 80 meters long and contains many waterfalls inside and outside with smaller caves that you can access only if you dive in. That’s where a mask or swimming goggles can be handy.
I must say I’d never seen anything like it. You dive in and just after 1.5 metres of swimming underwater, you are in a small cave surrounded by stalactites. It felt quite warm inside because of its hot water.
The second cave to your right is much bigger. Getting there is a bit of a challenge because you have to hold onto a yellow rope to pull yourself against a quite strong current caused by a waterfall next to the cave.
There are a few more waterfalls and streams coming in from moon-like openings. It felt like being on a different planet. After spending a good amount of time swimming and filming the cave land, it was time to explore the rest of the park.
Next to the caves, you will find a bridge that leads you to the other park La Gloria. Because the owners of the two parks are different, you have to pay a different entrance fee which is 100 pesos if you come from Grutas Tolantongo and 150 pesos if you go there directly from the main entrance (only accessible by your own car).
Note that this side of the park closes at 8:00 pm, so you have to be back before that otherwise you may not find a staff member that will let you in. Have your entry tickets ready to show when you come back.
Once you cross the bridge, you will eventually be found by one of the staff members who will collect payment from you. So don’t forget to bring cash!
This park was my favourite because it had so much vegetation, cool trees, pools, and waterfalls. It also felt more low key. Mostly it’s just the locals who know about it, so it has a much quieter vibe.
As I went there so late on the first day, I only had two hours to explore. It wasn’t enough time at all because the park is huge with so many little hidden gems.
You can climb up and down the smaller pools or explore the canyon at the end of the park.
The accommodation there is cheaper too, at only 800 pesos for a private cabana. You can also camp there if you want to. If I ever go back there, I will definitely stay for at least one night.
The next day, I thought I could enjoy everything the river side has to offer and take a shuttle bus to Las Pocitas at 6:00 am. But of course being Mexico, the information about the bus schedule wasn’t quite right, so when I climbed up to the main street, the staff told me that there were no buses until 7:30 am.
The staff weren’t totally sure if it was coming at all either, as the shuttle bus only travels when it’s full or at least half-full to make it worth the trip. The smaller cars that could take me up there for 100 pesos weren’t available either at that time. So if you definitely want to experience sunrise at Las Pocitas, you have to stay at Grutas Tolantongo the night before.
I made the choice to return to La Gloria and enjoy the sunrise there. Technically I had to pay another 100 pesos in the morning, but the guy remembered me from the previous night and didn’t charge me again which was really nice of him.
I loved exploring the hidden waterfalls and the canyon there. Look for the sign to Canon De La Gloria and follow the path. Your feet will get wet as you pass small streams of water. You will see a rope that you can hold so you don’t slip on the wet rocks. You will pass some small pools to the right, but keep following the path until you go down where you will see a natural pool with the canyon behind it.
It looks completely different to the rest of the areas of the parks. The water is still thermal but much fresher and becomes colder the higher you go in the canyon. At the top, you will reach the deepest pool where you can dive in. There is also a rope in the water to hold onto if needed. There is a sign that warns you not to pass a certain boundary.
I met a few friendly Mexicans that were willing to chat with me at the pools. It definitely felt less touristy there and it was filled with local tourists from nearby towns that were there to relax and get away from their usual lives rather than a photo opportunity for social media.
After a long morning at La Gloria, it was time for me to head back to my tent and pack up. The tent was available until 12:00 pm, but I was still hoping to avoid the main crowds at Las Pocitas.
I was at the road at 9:00 am, but the staff members told me that I had to walk up to the second main entrance as the shuttle leaves only from there unless I wanted to opt for a private transfer for 100 pesos.
Having a limited amount of cash, I sucked it up and hiked to the second main entrance. Then I waited 30 minutes before the shuttle arrived and another 20 minutes before it was full. So I arrived at Las Pocitas at about 10:30 am.
Of course being Friday, it was already quite busy and hot. The scenery was breathtaking, but I just don’t enjoy overcrowded places so I only stayed there for a short amount of time.
I would definitely go back there and sleep over to enjoy a peaceful evening or early morning without all the crowds. However, the view from the pools was breathtaking and still worth it. Although after visiting the rest of the park, I wasn’t as impressed as I would have been if I went there first.
Final thoughts
If you have two nights, definitely divide them by spending one night at Las Pocitas and one night at either the river or at La Gloria. La Gloria in my opinion is a must and if you only come for a day by car, I would go to La Gloria and the river if you have time.
Las Pocitas are nice. But if you visit just for a day, you will most likely arrive there when it’s already packed and hot. There also isn’t that much shade available.
As an overall experience, La Gloria was my favourite as it was the most hidden and adventurous park. I loved very single section of it. From beautiful and cozy pools to waterfalls with lush green canyons and even a deep pool which you can dive into. I enjoyed free diving there and hanging out with the fish.
If you only visit for one day, I would recommend choosing one or two sections of the two parks rather than doing them all. You would be rushing it and get quite tired as there are lots of walking and stairs at both parks.
One or two nights is perfect to both enjoy the scenery and explore all the hidden gems. Although for me, one night felt a bit rushed.
Whichever option you choose, I’m sure it will live up to your expectations!